#WB26 $39.00  Stainless Steel Bracket

Extremely strong, supplied with stainless steel mounting screws

1" Diameter; Distance between the two upper screw holes is about 1 ^7/8"; Between an upper hole and the bottom hole is about 1 ^3/4" as near as I can measure with a ruler.

Dimensions: These flag brackets are about 3.25" tall, footprint is about 2.75" left to right, profile is about 2.5" from the wall to the front face of the bracket.

Depth of the three sockets: The vertical barrel (the top hole) is about 3 ^1/8" deep, The 45 degree angle (the middle hole) is about 2-2^3/8" deep, The 90 degree angle (the bottom hole) is about 1.5" deep.

#WB39G $64.00 Gold Engine Block Bracket

Click to enlarge

CAUTION: This bracket does not lend itself to the pole being easily taken in and out. The pole needs to be held in with the two set screws shown. You need a screw driver to take the pole in and out. Click on the image to enlarge. DO NOT GET THIS SIDE MOUNT BRACKET UNLESS YOU DON'T MIND NEEDING A SCREW DRIVER TO REMOVE YOUR FLAGPOLE.

THIS BRACKET IS OPEN ON THE BOTTOM END. The set screws are what hold your pole in the bracket. Wooden poles are typically NOT a true 1". They are typically thinner even if they are said to be 1".

Do not use a wooden pole with this bracket because the set screws may not be able to hold them. Use these flagpoles

Two position brackets have a 45 degree angle for regular poles, but also an 85 degree for banner poles meant to hold vertical banners or flags. Comes with thumb screw for holding pole tight. Supplied with wood screws.

This bracket can display your flag like this

#WB59 $59.00

Aluminum Flag Bracket with locking pin.

For 1" flagpole. This is a real good find. No rusting, real thick

The base plate is about 3x3" for a nice solid footprint to contact the installation surface. Look how thick it is: 1/4". The screw holes are 2" on center. Weep hole in the base plate allows water do drain out. Barrel is a deep 5". Drill a hole in your pole to match up the holes for the locking pin and you can use the pin to lock in your pole.

1" diameter Nylon Multi Bracket Two position bracket has a 45 degree angle for regular poles, but also an 85 degree for banner poles meant to hold vertical banners or flags. Supplied with wood screws.

This bracket can display your flag like this

1" Adjustable Aluminum Bracket

Displays pole at a vertical, 25°, 50°, 65° or horizontal position. For 1" diameter pole. Supplied with thumb screw.

Only use this bracket if for some reason you need multi angles or are simply married to the concept. It is not as strong as other brackets we have. Through the years I have seen more adjustable brackets break than our other 1" brackets

White #WB40 $31.95

Gold #WB40G $33.95

Silver #WB40S $26.95

Black #WB40B $32.95

Avenue Banner Brackets and Hardware

Wall Mount Vertical Flag Holder

For 1" pole, zinc plated steel

#WB38 $85 Each

Supplied with set screws to hold the pole in the tube but NOT supplied with screws or anchors to mount the bracket to a wall

Dimension: 12" Tall, distance between the wall and the back of the tube is about 2.25".

Bolt holes are about 2.5" apart on center and about 8.5" between the top holes and the bottom holes

Aluminum Wall Shield bracket, supplied with set screw but not mounting screws. Nice flagpole holders for inside a church.

Item #	Angle	For Pole Diameter	Price
#WB42	25 °	15/16"	$84.00
#WB43	25 °	1"	$84.25
#WB44	25 °	1 1/8"	$84.50
#WB45	70 °	15/16"	$84.75
#WB46	70 °	1"	$85.00
#WB47	70 °	1 1/8"	$85.50
Size: The shield plate of all shield brackets are about 6" tall and 4.25" wide. The barrel is about 6" deep
25 °

These are real strong and classy looking especially if you keep them polished. We've not seen one break. There is a set screw on the back that you can just make out peeking over the top edge in the picture. Photo shows a fiberglass pole inserted. Poles sold separately.  Supplied with brass wood screws.

A flagpole holder with class.

#WB17    $195.00

#WB12 $188.00

NOT supplied with screws or bolts. Top half is the left photo, bottom half is the right photo

NOT supplied with screws or bolts

The round mounting back plate is 4 ^5/8" in diameter on each of the two halves

Flag mount for parking meters

Parking Meter Bracket, Parking meter flag holder. Clamps on to pipe diameter of about  2 1/4". The clamp is adjustable

Holds a 1^3/8" Diameter Pole

#WB36

Parking Meter Bracket or wall mount bracket:  needs to be strapped on if attaching to a parking meter. Straps not included

Holds a 1^3/8" Diameter Pole

#WB37

Cast aluminum lawn socket

Supplied with plastic cap for the top

CAUTION: Before installing this socket into the ground you should make a hole with a crowbar first. Don't just slam it into the ground with a sledge hammer. If you hit a rock, you may ruin the socket. Don't pound the socket itself. Put a hunk of wood on it and pound the wood, not the socket

Lawn sockets

Supplied with plastic cap for the top. CAUTION: Before installing this socket into the ground you should make a hole with a crowbar first. Don't just slam it into the ground with a sledge hammer. If you hit a rock, you may ruin the socket. Don't pound the socket itself. Put a hunk of wood on it and pound the wood, not the socket.

Cast aluminum concrete socket for setting into concrete

Supplied with plastic cap for the top

Vertical Flag Holder 1", galvanized steel

Flag holder for dock or deck use basically at ground level

Base plate diameter is approximately 3^5/8"

The 1/2 " bolt holes are approximately 1^3/4" apart

Tube is approx 14.5" tall, base and tube are approx 1/8" thick

This thing is real darn helpful for mounting on a dock or deck or something like that. It is NOT the typical thing you would use in a school classroom

  Click on images of #VH112 to enlarge

Vertical Aluminum Flag Holders

Flag holder for deck or dock use basically at ground level.

   Click on images of #VH112 to enlarge

Use with #AFP20F pole sold separately

The base plate is about 8x15"; there is a 1/2" distance between the edge of the tube and the close edge of the base; there is about an 11" distance between the edge of the tube and the far edge of the base. The tube has an outside diameter of about 2^3/8"

Aluminum Trailer Hitch Flag Mount

For standard 2" square Reese receiver hitch.

Absolutely under no circumstances for use on a moving vehicle.

Takes a 2^1/2" diameter pole

#WB41 $245.00

Use with #AFP20F pole sold separately

The Bull Moose #WB49 $189

Takes a 1.5" Flagpole

Cast Aluminum Outrigger Bracket

Displays pole at a 30º angle

Mounting hardware (screws or bolts) not included

Bull Moose American Flag Kit

click to see dimensions

At Last!! A bracket that takes a 1.5" Flagpole

Vertical Bracket

#WB53 $189.00 per pair

Cast Aluminum Vertical Bracket

Displays pole straight up

Mounting hardware (screws or bolts) not included

I get asked all the time "Hey Al, I have a brick house. Tell me which bracket to use so it doesn't come off. Aren't there flagpole mounts for brick?"

Answer: NO!

No one bracket is more suited for that purpose than another. Just look at them. They all have a flat base with holes in them. Every bracket can be attached to brick. Why would any one bracket be more likely to stay attached to brick than another? Mounting a bracket on brick has nothing to do with the particular bracket. It has to do with the fasteners you use and the way you drill into the brick. Drill too close to the edge of a brick and you might crack it. That problem would prevent your fastener from getting a good hold and staying on. Your success even has to do with what kind of brick you have, how hard it is and its condition. Some brick is super hard. Some brick is soft. You can mount any bracket to brick but you need to provide your own fasteners. We supply only wood screws with brackets.

The question is not about what is being mounted to brick. Instead it is how something is being mounted to brick. It is not a function of which bracket to use.

Any bracket can be mounted on brick, but it is tricky. Holes need to be drilled with a masonry bit and then plastic or lead "anchors" or "shields" need to be installed. These need to be correctly sized to the screws that then will be used. They also need to be correctly sized to the drill bit being used. If the hole is not drilled to the correct size, if the shields are not the right size to the hole, or if the screw is not the right size to the shield, then the bracket will get loose. The person selling you the anchors or shields should sell you the appropriate size for the masonry bit you will be using and for the screws or fasteners you will be using. Also, the condition of the brick itself has a lot to do with how well the whole system performs over time. Even if you size and drill everything correctly, over time the fasteners can grind away at some brick and widen the holes causing the bracket to come loose. Drilling into brick and mounting a flag bracket to it is not a failsafe operation.

In short, the best way to mount a bracket on to brick is this:

Here is a good idea someone else had on mounting their flag holder to brick:

Or, put a bracket someplace else, like on a tree. Or it is very easy to put a very simple pole in the lawn. Take a look at the very simple EZ2 lawn kit shown here:
Lawn Flag Kits

The same concept applies to siding of all kinds. Why would any one bracket be better for that purpose than another?

Vinyl siding and other types of siding are problematic. What is behind your siding? Can you catch anything solid with screws? I have cedar shake siding on my house and there is not even plywood behind the siding. The house is early 50's and for sheathing back then they were using a type of black fibrous material that is not meant to be solid enough to hold wood screws. I would have to catch a stud. But I would never be able to catch a stud for each screw going through the bracket. The holes are too wide apart. And even if I could, any type of siding will prevent me from getting a bracket to mount flat. You won't be able to get a good bite against the wall surface due to the siding's profile. I wouldn't even try to mount a bracket on my house.

Stucco is a real can of worms. It can be real uneven and rough so you are not working with good contact to your bracket's base. Then, how thick is it? How solid is it? Can it hold a screw without crumbling and grinding away? Is the stucco material itself thick enough and solid enough to hold fasteners? I have no idea. What is behind it? Can you catch anything solid behind it with real long screws? I have no idea.

Round columns are just plain tough also. They are only made from a veneer of wood and are hollow inside, so you don't always get a good bite with the screws. It depends on the column's wall thickness, its condition and if is is even wood at all. Modern ones are often plastic or pvc. Unless you are willing to strap a bracket on with stainless steel straps like they do on municipal telephone poles on Main St, there is just no great solution. And straps might well mar the finish of modern plastic columns. The Moose bracket has a slot for a strap, but to keep it straight you would still want to screw it in. But then maybe at least the main stress would be on the strap, not on the screws. No guarantees, but that is the only idea I have.